Completion: Virgin de Guadeloupe Collection Reboot: Underbust Skirt and JSK

Wow, let me tell you, this version of the Virgin de Guadeloupe has been in my head for years. Many of you remember the first Virgin JSK I made way back in 2011. Towards the end I make small mention of my idea of making versions in this colorway too. Well, after about four years, I finally did it! 

Instead of velveteen, I decided to use this green brocade fabric. It was so easy to sew with and it's very thick and sturdy. The only think you have to be weary about is snagging the satin jacquard threads, but as with all Lolita garments, take care! It's the nature of the stuff sometimes you know? 

Both of these pieces are not made to fit my dressform, as they are a little larger to fit my customers who are purchasing these. I cinched them in to fit, so I apologize if anything looks a little wonky or ill-fitting, you may not be able to tell though. The range for these pieces are 30"-36" waists opposed to my usual 26"-32" waists. I'm slowly learning how to accommodate larger sizes and I hope everything fits well! I can fix it a bit if not for them, at no charge of course! It should only be a matter of letting out some of the shirring. But I really hope I got it right the first time.

So lets get to those photos shall we? 

Item I. 

High Waist Underbust Skirt

Waist portion is made of the green brocade and trimmed with a self ruffle, cream and gold braiding trim, embroidered cream lace, striped gold organza ribbon at the front, and cream satin at the back. Front and back are both shirred and the front only is boned with plastic encased boning. Skirt portion is the printed Virgin de Guadeloupe Print by Alexander Henry, 2003 in the color 'Natural'. The hem is trimmed with off white cotton beading lace with green satin ribbon, off white edging lace, and off white mesh ruffle attached to the lining. 

Blouse I used to coordinate is from Innocent World, and jewelry of course are Moss Marchen.

[Click the following photos to enlarge]

My favorite thing about this print is the metallic gold printing they use in the crown and around the Virgin Mary motifs. So beautiful. This print is one of my absolute favorites ever made. The only difficulty about it is getting the right repeat placement. I used a shorter layout this time around and then compensated for the length with the mesh ruffle. I like the proportion. The skirt length is about 27" from the waist ruffle included. 

I have to trim that thread hanging from the braiding. I always have trouble finishing the ends of them because they are so thick!

Next time however, when I'm working with thick brocade fabrics like these, I will not do anymore self ruffles that tiny. It is so complicated to sew and get to lay flat, let alone adding more bulky trim on top of it. It's a miracle I was able to sew it without it looking crazy. Lesson learned. At least it turned out okay in the end. 

Item II. 

Underbust Jumper Skirt

Bodice portion is made of the same green brocade and trimmed with a mesh ruffle, cream and gold braiding trim,  and striped gold organza ribbon at the front. Front and back are both shirred, and the front only is boned with plastic encased boning. Skirt portion is the printed Virgin de Guadeloupe Print by Alexander Henry, 2003 in the color 'Natural'. The hem is trimmed with off white cotton beading lace with green satin ribbon, off white edging lace, and off white mesh ruffle attached to the lining. 

Front ties are long because of the cinching to fit. When worn the tails are sure to finish shorter than what I have pictured. 

[Click the following photos to enlarge]

The best ting about this is the free bust and all that ease of movement you get from front and back shirring. I do front and back shirring a lot when it's flattering to the silhouette of the garment because I know how important comfort is with lolita clothing. Western lolitas are often bustier and need more for our waists to breathe. I like to cater to that. Never do I make anything without shirring unless the design doesn't agree with it. 

Also, these pieces follow a similar silhouette to the Walking Museum Collection from my previous posts. I was still feeling it so I did them again. Both silhouettes are very flattering worn on lots of body types, thus why I like them.

I think I'm really beginning to like doing mini collections like these. It's cool to lay the pieces out together and see them as a little group. It's also fun to make little design differences and similarities between two styles and garment types. Looks like this is what I will be doing a lot of from now on, especially since I've been getting a lot of requests lately. I always say it, but I hate doing the same exact thing twice in my personal work, so making a bunch of 'versions of' is enjoyable. 

Hope you all liked these! There is a possibility of me doing a One Piece Dress version of this in the future, so look out for that one. 

I have a special upcoming project for a special Children's Wear customer for a very special event due in mid-April so I will be pretty indisposed with that until then. I'm excited to complete that one, but right afterward, many more projects are coming. I have a massive list this year and I hope I can complete most of it and reveal projects every month. My pace and speed at sewing is improving, and will only get better with more work. 

Until next time, thank you for reading and supporting my work. You are all what keeps me motivated!

- Aria

[Credit for golden frame in banner, EveyD]